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Travel Log of Thailand

On a fine day when we enjoyed taking pictures of airplanes landing one after another to Naha Airport, Lina-chan said definitely --- "You should go to Thailand." When I booked a ticket, I was not sure if I can fulfill my purpose of this trip. What is my purpose? It was OK if I could observe some related places so that I can picture images when I chat online after coming back from Thailand.

One thing I decided for this trip was not to rely on Japanese guidebooks. I bought Lonely Planet Thailand 12th Edition. Before visiting Thailand, I already contacted some Thai friends who had met in my workplace. Meeting these friends was a big motivation for me.

Index

Itinerary

Click a date to jump to the log of the day.

01 Sep '07 Tokyo/Narita 16:00 ===(JL703)=== 20:50 Bangkok/Suvarnabhumi --- Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn
02 Sep --- Chatuchak Market --- Bang Pu Seaside Resort --- Muang Boran (Ancient City) --- Fortune Town --- Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn
03 Sep --- Pattaya --- Nong Mon Market --- Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn
04 Sep --- Dusit Palace --- Wat Benchamabophit (Marble Temple) --- Kong-san's place
05 Sep --- Kanchanaburi War Cemetery --- War Museum & Death Railway Bridge --- Tiger Temple --- Sai Yok Noi Waterfall --- Lodge on Khwae Yai River
06 Sep --- Erawan Waterfall --- Sawasdee Banglumpoo Inn
07 Sep --- National Museum --- Wat Arun --- Wat Pho --- Chinatown ---Sawasdee Bangkok Inn
08 Sep --- Bang Pa-In Palace --- Ayuttaya --- Sawasdee Krungthep Inn
09 Sep --- Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace --- Siam --- Chatuchak Market --- Sawasdee Krungthep Inn
10 Sep --- Siam --- Chulalongkorn University --- Jook-san's Place --- Banngkok/Suvarnabhumi 23:25 === (JL704) === 07:30 (11 Sep) Tokyo/Narita

Map

(Sorry, Under Construction...)


Travel Log

01 Sep 2007 (Sat)

At Narita Airport, I changed 20,000 yen to 4,980 bahts. I didn't know if it's good rate, but I was worried if I could smoothly find a good-rate exchanger soon after arriving Bangkok. (It turned out to be a very bad dealing because later I changed 10,000 yen to 2,921 bahts. I should've checked the latest rate beforehand.)

During six hour flight, I watched a movie "Il Porco Rosso (Kurenai no Buta)", a famous Japanese cartoon movie. It ended just when the plain was landing at Suvarnabhumi Airport. Before the plane completely stopped, I checked the most important scene, the key of the story. This movie was so small and ended before a large war breaking up.

I was to see Jib-san (We Japanese attach -san for politeness), one of my friends in Thailand, at the airport; but she was not there. I waited uneasily walking around. I wasn't even sure if it was the right place to wait for her. Later on, I tried to make a call to her using a public phone, but the sequence was too different from Japan. Some airport staffs came and help me. One of the staffs inserted my 5 bahts into another telephone service equipped computer and input her number. She answered she would arrive in ten minutes! Finding me relieved, the staff downloaded a gun shooting game using remaining bahts. He was the first Thai who I talked with in this tour. He looked amusing and a little bit lazy. He didn't overwrite my old image of Thailand.

After a while, an announcement called my name hurrying me to go to the domestic arrival. Finally I met Jib-san. At the parking lot, I met her friend waiting in her sister's car. (It took some time to get this complex situation.) We had a dinner at a restaurant on the way to Bangkok. It was a nice Thai seafood restaurant surrounded by a moat.

As she hurried to the center of Bangkok at 100 km/h, it started raining with thunder in the distance. I was a little scared. We passed near Jib-san's house and her elder sister's flower shop. It was after midnight when we arrived at the hotel, Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn. Jib-san reserved a pretty nice room with a double bed and a hot shower by her credit card. Thank you so much Jib-san!

02 Sep 2007 (Sun)

In the morning when I called Jook-san, she was still in bed answering in sleepy voice. We made an appointment to meet at 10:30 at Lat Phrao. I had two hours more so I decided to walk from Thong Lor to Sukhumvit. I think the best way to know a strange city is to walk around to feel an atmosphere and a sense of distance. This time, however, I soon felt hot and became sweaty. I gave up walking at the next station, Phrom Phong and took a Skytrain to Mo Chit, which is near to Chatuchak Weekend Market. I appreciated many creative goods there.

While I was enjoying the market, I rapidly had big stomach trouble. It was probably because of the fresh orange juice I had yesterday. Buying tissue paper by 5 bahts, I rushed into a toilet in Chatuchak Park.

It was just 10:30 when I arrived at Lat Phrao, and then I found Jook-san waiting at the ticket wicket! I was very happy to meet her again though it was only after ten days. She suggested going to Grand Palace, but I asked her to go to suburbs of Bangkok by her car because I would have enough time alone on weekdays to sightsee the center of Bangkok.

On the way, Jook-san introduced many landmark buildings along the way by car. Over there we saw a building of a company called 'true', where she used to work for three years. It's the largest private company in telecommunication, a conglomerate expanding its business from fixed line to mobile just like NTT. I was excited to know she used to do the same business as me. I felt more affinities with her.

We had a lunch at an ocean-view restaurant, Bang Pu Seaside Resort. She explained the meanings of some Thai food. For example, 'tom yum kung' means boiled (tom) spicy (yum) shrimp (kung). I liked 'tod mun pla' (fried paste of fish) and 'oob voom' (baked noodle). Knowing I'm interested in linguistics, she taught me each element of Thai words logically. I like her way of teaching. In Japan, I introduced her some vocabulary of Japanese. Now it's my turn to learn her mother tongue. The restaurant was built above the sea, but today the tide was going out and there were a lot of crabs on mud flats.

We arrived at the today's destination, Muang Boran (means Ancient Capital). I had thought it was literally a historically existing ancient capital like Sukhothai or Ayuthaya. It was after I arrived that I got it's kind of a theme park with a collection of miniatures of historical buildings distributed around Thailand. Most monuments are smaller imitation but quite elaborate and big enough to go inside.

Not only that, some monuments like Sanphet Prasat Palace are reconstructed in this park, while the real one in Ayuthaya is still left destroyed. The interior of the building is also decorated in detail.

This park is very large and the shape is similar to that of Thailand: North part has monuments of Northern Thailand and so on. This park would be very nice to appreciate Thai historical architect style in a day, but it was a little bit embarrassing for me because I had not visited any real ones at that time. Later on, it became so hot that we lazily just took pictures without getting off the car.

We spent so much time at the park that it was already 18:00 and Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm And Zoo was already closed. We drove back to Fortune Town in Bangkok to have a dinner. Fortune Town was a very large building with an office of true company at which she used to work. So many kinds of business offices and shopping stores were inside. After enjoyed some window shopping, we had a dinner at MK, a franchised Thai Suki restaurant. I enjoyed eating without worrying about diarrhea since every food was boiled, but I minded if green noodles are artificial. (Later on, I got the green comes from vegetables, not from artificial color.)

We said good bye at the entrance of Fortune Town, then I took a subway at Rama IX and she drove back to her home. Thank you, Jook-san.

03 Sep 2007 (Mon)

I woke up late this morning. I called Jib-san, who took a day off for me today, at 9:30 at a nearby telephone booth. "Let's meet at the guest house at 10:00" she answered, "My mom is now preparing." I decided to walk down to the guest house. I thought it was nearby her place but actually it was very close to my hotel. Because of my misunderstanding, I had to go down the street only to take a local bus No. 6 to come back to the original place. We met at a flower shop run by her sister at 10:10. Before starting sightseeing, Jib-san had a business of receiving a lottery. She told me to wait there talking with her brother, Peter-san. However, I decided to go with Jib-san. I wanted to see whatever related to her.

Jib-san, her sister, and I took a Skytrain from Thong Lor to Ratchathewi. Then we took a taxi to Jib-san's workplace. I felt the atmosphere was very accommodating. Jib-san's desk was filled with a pile of documents. Probably she had a lot of work to do. We went to Government Lottery Office, where she received a bundle of lotteries. After that we went back to the flower shop.

At the flower shop, her mom, Peter-san, and his friend Ma-chan were ready to go to Pattaya. I met her eldest sister, and her childhood friend, and her friend I met on the first day. Jib-san really enjoys her local community. They all like Jib-san.

I drove her sister's Isuzu big car with a manual transmission. We headed to Pattaya by six person: Jib-san, her mom, her sister, her brother, his friend, and me. Her sister was happy because she didn't have to drive. We took an expressway from Bangkok to Chonburi. On the way, I saw many factories of Japanese companies. Pattaya was still far from Chonburi. Thai traffic rule was somewhat different from Japan; there were many U-turns and the number of lanes frequently changed. Sometimes my driving scared everyone. (Sorry...) It took more than two hours to get Pattaya.

We had a late lunch at MK (again) in a shopping mall; it's her mom's favorite. Jib-san takes care of her 80-year-old mom very much. While the other three went to another restaurant, we enjoyed Thai Suki with her mom.

It was getting darker, when we arrived at Jomtien Beach. Beaches in Pattaya were not so impressive for me because I'm already used to Okinawan marine blue. There were a lot of resort hotels, clubs, and bars, which appeared exciting and pleasing for Western tourists. We went to Amari Hotel, where Jib-san's friend works. Peter-san told me that he could have shown the night life of Pattaya, but we left Pattaya before night.

Her sister drove the return way. We dropped in at Nong Mon Market. Many stores sold various souvenirs, dried fish, and sweets. A shopkeeper let me eat dried fish. When Jib-san's mom found me enjoying it, she bought me a large bag of it! It was crispy and so nice. Thank you!

Finally we arrived at Jib-san's house. She showed me two of her four dogs. She told one of them might bite a stranger. I got scared but I was happy to see the dogs which I had seen only through the Skype window before. I said good bye to Jib-san there. I was very happy to see Jib-san again after one year. At last, they sent me to the entrance of the hotel. Thank you Jib-san's family!

04 Sep 2007 (Tue)

When we chatted with Kong-san last night using the Internet service at the hotel lobby, he told me he could take a day off and accompany me today, and also he offered to invite me to his place for tonight. How nice he is! He said "Don't enryo (hesitate).", so I was pleased to receive his offers.

This morning, he came to the hotel by himself around 11:00. According to him, address of Thailand is street-based like most countries but Japan and easy to find. Thank you Kong-san all the way! At that time, I was thinking about joining a tour to Kanchanaburi, which was a recommendation by a worker in my company who I had met in Tokyo the previous week. Kong-san asked a tour staff there in Thai and arranged a tour in his recommended way. Very nice! I paid 3,300 bahts for two-day tour to Kanchanaburi for tomorrow and the day after tomorrow.

I shouldered my backpack and left the hotel. We took a Skytrain from Thong Lor to Siam and had a lunch at a Chinese restaurant 'Sri Fa'. The tastes were somewhat different from those in Japan, but I enjoyed these Thai flavored Chinese dishes very much despite my late breakfast.

We took a taxi to Dusit Palace. We visited Vimanmek Mansion and Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall inside the palace. Vimanmek Mansion was a wooden Western style building for King Rama V and his wives. English speaking guides proudly explained the rooms inside and antiques presented from various countries. Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall was built by Italian architects using abundant marble under the instruction by King Rama V.

King Rama V (Chula Chom Klao) was a very foresighted figure. He adopted many from European Civilization. It was his way to avoid being colonized by European countries. He had to show Thailand was developed enough to keep independent. According to Kong-san, most of basic infrastructures were built in his reign: roads, railways, water pipes, and so on. His reign from 1868 to 1910 was exactly the period of Meiji Era in Japan, when we were similarly under the strong pressure of Europe. Japanese people tried to make our country stronger by adopting many advantages of European countries. I told Kong-san there might be a brain trust who suggested such measure to him. But Kong-san negated clearly. Meiji Restoration was led by multiple geniuses through disorder and struggle. It would be awesome if the similar renewal was led only by one prominent king. In front of the hall stands a statue of the King Chula. Kong-san and me did wai (put palms together and make a bow) in front of him deeply, like every Thai people does.

Then we walked to Wat Benchamabophit (so called Marble Temple), which was also built by King Chula using the remaining marble. He talked about his training experience to be a monk. He said this training was awakening. He was born in Buddhist family and he had taken granted rules of Buddhism. However, in the training he met a very good teacher. "There's no fixed teaching by Buddha himself." the teacher told to Kong-san, "Buddha just encouraged you to 'think' by yourself and find your own way to be happy." Now Kong-san is sure he is an independent Buddhist who can 'think' and practice by himself. I would never forget this impressive story Kong-san told in Marble Temple. At the inner court, Kong-san indicated the statue of very thin Buddha under fasting. It suggests Buddha himself had also tried many to find his way to acquire true happiness.

We walked aside Chitlada Park, which is now almost the research institute of agriculture and fishery science. King Rama the IX, the current King, devotes himself to contribute to the development and the wealth of Thailand. According to Kong-san the king is a specialist of rainfall. He would like to apply his knowledge to increase agricultural efficiency. In the moat surrounding the palace we found fish called 'plaa nil' (means tilapia), which had been brought from Japanese Emperor, and a reptile called 'takowd' which is believed to bring about bad luck.

Next of the palace was the block many public offices, at which a lot of my Thai friends work. We shared our joy of reunion with Det-san, Rat-san, and Pat-san. It was two years before when I had met Pat-san the last time. She was as charming as she had been. I remembered her peculiar nasal voice. I had a chance to observe Kong-san's workplace. At the server room, the staff member explained about virtualization technology, which I only vaguely know. I believe their skill is higher than me. I also visited Det-san's workplace with Rat-san. I really had a good time in their workplaces.


In fact, I had been looking forward to tonight so much, for we were to have a dinner together. We headed to a famous restaurant reserved by Kong-san by Det-san's car. When we arrived there were, I saw five friends: P'Lek-san, P'Au-san, P'Oak-san, Wika-san, and Jook-san!

Samsensoisam is a river-side restaurant. In fact it was the first time for me to see Chao Phraya River. Over there was Rama VIII Bridge lit up beautifully. Everyone found I was very excited. Of course! I was a happiest man who enjoyed convivial dinner with as many as ten Thai friends at this nice place! I gave them Japanese traditional candies as souvenir. It was one of the happiest moments in this tour!

Five of us: Det-san, Rat-san, Kong-san, Pat-san, and me, went to Kong-san's house by Det-san's car. I was very surprised at seeing his large and new house. There were two classical cars of Volkswagen. Inside the house, he keeps goldfish in a large tank. It's a three-story house and every room has its own bathroom. What a high living standard! Undoubtedly his quality of life is much higher than me. He lives with his younger sister and her family. After Det-san, Rat-san, and Pat-san left, we talked a little. He played a Thai traditional instrument, kim. He can play so many instruments including Okinawan sanshin!

He prepared a very large empty room and its bathroom for me and gave me a Chinese soap. He also gave me a Uminchu T-shirt (same as the one he was wearing but different size), and knee trousers, because I hadn't washed my cloths yet and I didn't have spare cloths. (I'm very bad...) Thank you Kong-san for everything for today! Actually, he looked very busy. His cell phone was often ringing busily all day. Thank you for taking a day off for me.

05 Sep 2007 (Wed)

We woke up very early because I have to go to a hotel nearby Kong-san's place so that the tour bus could pick me up. We left his houseat 06:00. In Kong-san's Beatle car, he played 'Chulalongkorn' in classic guitar for me. It is one of the compositions by the current king, Rama the IX. He is not only a researcher, but a great musician and a composer! It was very classical car but the sound quality was great. Probably he had replaced the original speakers.

The hotel we arrived was nothing but Fortune Hotel attached to Fortune Town where I visited on Sunday! Soon after, a tour staff came and I said good bye to Kong-san. Kong-san left to his workplace.

In the small van of the tour company were four Western tourists and me. It took more than one and half hours to escape Bangkok. It was 09:40 when we arrived at Kanchanaburi War Cemetery. We observed there freely for twenty minutes. The graves of British and Dutch soldiers, who were forced to work by Japanese Army, were well-maintained here.

We visited War Museum and Death Railway Bridge. At that time around 1942, Japan had tried to expand its territory to Burma and even to India. Building a railway bridge across the Khwae Yai River had been inevitable to send soldiers and resources to Burma. We Japanese tend to focus on those fights against the U.S. and China. I didn't realize there had been fights in Indochina Peninsula against British and Dutch armies. I remembered that I had learned ABCD Powers (America, British, China, and Dutch) in high school world history subject.

We got on train from Tha Kilen to Ko Maha Mongkol. On the way, I met a Thai girl, Pansa-san. She is a graduate of Thammasat University and now works for tourism. She was very clever and her English was excellent. I was very pleased to see another intellectual in this rural area. (This is a picture sent by her via email later.)

We had a lunch at a floating lodge. I talked with a Canadian tourist who came by another bus. She used to learn karate and had much knowledge about Japan.

A tour staff member called only me to go to elephant riding, for my tour plan was specially arranged. A local driver brought me to the site. Then I took a ride on one of an array of elephants. As our array moved away from the start point one by one escaping from an eye of a tour staff, my elephant rider started smoking and singing. The young boy looked very lazy. Soon he took a rest with other riders at a tree. The total riding time including the rest was less than twenty minutes. (The staff yesterday told me that it should be one hour.) However, it was rather better because the sun shined so strong and I wanted to be away from his smoke. I had imagined that I could go across the river with elephant. Another bad thing was my elephant was ugly with its face and ears sprayed in purple. Even though, I paid 100 bahts to buy a photo of my riding. I don't know how much skill is required to ride on an elephant. But I think tours should be operated basically by adult qualified staffs. Some regulation might be needed to improve the quality of tours in Thailand.

While I was riding, other tour members were waiting for me. Then we went to Wat Pa Luang Ta Bua Yanna Sampanno (so called Tiger Temple). It was rather a safari park. Tigers there were so hand-raised by monks that they were quiet even we got close to them. Not only tigers, cows, buffaloes, wild boars were hanging in the field.

Lastly, we went to Sai Yok Noi Waterfall. It was small but enough to cool ourselves. Two Dutch girls changed into a bathing suit and enjoyed fresh falling water. I took some pictures for them.

After having a dinner (green curry), we took a boat to another floating lodge, today's accommodation. All tour members except me were from European countries. We drank a bottle of Singha beer at a wooden simple bar. Three from Australia, one guy from the Netherlands, and the other was from London. He was Sikh born in India. As they spoke in natural, I could hardly understand their talking. I was better in speaking. One Australian woman was interested in my talk of decreasing corals in Okinawa and she replied in easy and clear English. A Thai staff member who was 50 said "I haven't learned English at school, just from tourists here for seven months." Amazingly, he seemed to understand their English far better than me. I realized listening ability is trained only by exposing yourself to the native environment. I use English in my workplace, but there aren't native speakers of English. At a Karaoke time, I sang "We are the champions." We became friendly until I left the bar earlier.

06 Sep 2007 (Thu)

The more we went along the Khwae Yai River, the more transparent the water became. It probably meant we moved from plain sandy area to mountainous rocky area. It took two hours to arrive at the entrance of Erawan Waterfall.

Erawan Waterfall is a collection of seven tiers of waterfalls. As we climbed up, air became cooler and fresher. On the top tier, we bathed in the water. It was better than any artificial swimming pool of any hotel.


On the return way, a funky Australian tour mate and I sang many songs of Queen. He was very nice and natural. I guessed his girlfriend, who was also a tour member, must be very happy.

It was just 12:30 when we came back to the entrance. We went back to the lodge to have lunch. Erawan Waterfall Trekking was so nice. Thank you Kong-san for nice arrangement!

It was after 18:00 when we arrived in Bangkok. They got me off at Khao San Street, for Kong-san reserved a hotel, Sawasdee Banglumpoo Inn for me (He is perfect!). Khao San Street is famous for cheap guesthouses for backpackers. I liked this atmosphere. I hope Tokyo should have this kind of cheap district. Roppongi is popular but expensive. When I arrived at the hotel, they had only double room but discounted to 650 bahts for one night. The clerk said there were many phone calls to me. The first thing I had to do was washing cloths. I found a street stall which said "Laundry 30 bahts / 1 kg". I asked for every cloth but those I was wearing at that time. The staff told me to come again at 14:00 tomorrow. (The T-shirt I was wearing was washed by swimming in this afternoon, and the knee trousers were already a swimwear. No need to wash.) I had a small dinner at the hotel restaurant so that I could catch any call.

Wika-san offered that she could accompany me tomorrow afternoon. I had nothing particular to do so I was pleased to receive her offer. Thank you, Wika-san. In fact I would like to go to Chiang Mai, influenced by many Western tourmates. I met. But I gave up. Sometimes I become so experience-oriented and blind to other ones' feeling. I have to beware. Tonight I chatted for three hours in total!

07 Sep 2007 (Fri)

Today, I made an appointment with Wika-san at 13:00 at the lobby of the hotel. I had a time so I walked to National Museum. It is a huge complex but I spent most of my time at Thai History gallery. For two hours, I enthusiastically read instructions on displays. In fact I have already read the history of Thailand in Lonely Planet, but it was still beneficial to learn visually. Some of the new knowledge I learned were: Ayutthaya was weakened by Burmese spy, a vocabulary "Pang" (means bread) was introduced by Portuguese in Ayuttaya Period, King Rama the IV was very good at Science, and some territories were ceded to European countries in the period of King Rama the IV and the V. I found myself very interested in Thai history. Two hours passed very quickly. I went back to the hotel and did checking out by 12:00.

Wika-san and P'Au-san came to the lobby at 13:15. Thank you all the way. They finished ten-week English training. They wore a polo shift of the company. We had Pad Thai (Thai fried noodle) as a lunch.

I retrieved the cleaned cloths and booked a hotel for tonight. Thank you for waiting! We took a tuk tuk and used a cross-river ferry from Tha Tien across to Wat Arun, which cost only 3 bahts. Wat Arun is famous for its 82m tower. On the top, I showed off my knowledge that Tonburi was opened by the King Taksin the Great. Wika-san answered King Taksin the Great and the former Prime Minister Thaksin have different accent: King Taksin has an accent at sin, while the Prime Minister has at Thak. Fatal mistake! It was rather scary to climb down the steep stairs. I had to keep holding on to a handrail strongly.

We came back to the Bangkok side and went to Wat Pho. I got a 30 min Thai massage there. The staff started pressing my left leg with her weight. It was ticklish at first, but as I tried to be relax I became feeling good. She pressed almost all parts of my body. 220 bahts was a little bit expensive, but I was very satisfied. I felt my body moving easily.

Wat Pho is famous for its very large reclining Buddha. In Thailand, every day of the week has its own style of Buddha. Reclining Buddha is for Tuesday. It's interesting that they adopt the idea of Christianity. Anyway the Buddha was so big with very long legs. As P'Au-san exercises yoga, she got a brochure of the massage school in Wat Pho.

We took Chao Phraya Express to Tha Ratchawong to go to Chinatown. It was very crowded, partly because of some campaign to promote the town. Red costume staffs were moving by a series of train-shape cars. We saw the mayor of Bangkok by chance. As Wika-san said they sell only gold or food, there were many restaurants and banks, which are the same scenery of many Chinatowns around the world. While Japanese and Thai are good at absorbing foreign cultures, Chinatown indicates they don't fit in to the local society. They might have a feeling that they are the origin of culture. It reminded me of the U.S. bases in Okinawa. I think everyone can learn many by accepting local cultures.

After walking so much along Yaowarat Street, we had Chinese dishes at some restaurant. I treated this meal but it was one and only time in this tour. We took a bus No. 53. After saying thank you and good bye, I got of near Thammasat University.

08 Sep 2007 (Sat)

I took a Chao Phraya Express to the north terminal Nontaburi. I made an appointment to see Jook-san at the ferry terminal. It was so fine day; my expectation to see her was increasing as the ferry went to the north.

Jook-san came with her dad and his driver, Ang-san. We headed to Ayutthaya by his car. Nontaburi looked kind of new suburb of a large city. She indicated her workplace and restaurants she usually has lunch from inside the car. Nontaburi is not busier than Bangkok, new, and clean, probably nice place to live. At first her dad played a Japanese pops which I gave to her with low volume. When I found it was his sense of hospitality, I offered that I would like to listen to Thai music. Then the volume became louder. Jook-san's dad is a very kind gentleman.

We visited Bang Pa-In Palace. It was a beautiful palace where many European and Thai style buildings were well composed in harmony. At the inner part were the villas for tens of wives of King Rama the V. I thought his power and financial background were so great that he could build many beautiful buildings and maintain so many wives and children. There were some memorials for the dead his first queen, Sunandakumariratana and their princess, Saovabhark Nariratana. They were died by a boat accident. The guardians couldn't rescue them because touching women of King family was prohibited at that time. King Rama the V was in deep sorrow and soon changed the law.

We had a lunch at Phae Krung Kao, a famous river-side restaurant. A prawn was so nice that I had eaten very quickly. Every dish is well-cooked. It might be the best meal in the trip!

After the nice meal, we visited five temples. (We were lazy to go into Wat Chetharam,famous for the scene used in postcards.) Jook-san taught me how to pray: put a flower in a vase, fire a candle and stand it, light a bunch of incenses and stick them into a holder, put up a gold leaf on a Buddha stature, and do wai. Thanks to Jook-san's family, it was very comfortable and luxuly tour. Without his car, we would have been soon tired out moving temple to temple. One pity thing was I couldn't get where they were until I came back to Japan. I had misunderstood even Bang Pa-In Palace was in the center of Ayutthaya Historical Park. However, it's needless to say that visiting five temples in a short time couldn't have been done without his car and their hospitality. I couldn't find a word to thank them.

After the luxuly tour in Ayutthaya, they sent me back to Bangkok. We had an early dinner at a river side restaurant. Jook-san and me were not hungry so much yet (we didn't move our body so much in Ayutthaya), but the spicy dishes facilitate our appetites. At the restaurant, I asked to her dad why his children are equally capable. He answered he used to teach mathematics when Jook-san was very young. I got it! When she had been my student, her way of making questions was essential and outstanding. She never gave it up until she logically understood. She was a genuine learner. We were very happy when she was satisfied. Perhaps, the habit of thinking 'Why' came from her dad. He used to be an military engineer who designed runaways in bases. I really think Jook-san is very lucky to have been born as his child.

Finally, they kindly sent me to my hotel, which was at Banglamphu, famous place for cheap guesthouses. We said good at Phra Athit Street. However, when I was checking in, Jook-san and her dad ran to me. He was worried if I might be kidnapped! I tried to send them again back to the car, but he stopped me to keep me staying. This incident was very impressive for me to see how kind he is.

09 Sep 2007 (Sun)

I made an appointment to see Jook-san at the entrance of Grand Palace. After a few minutes, it was not Jook-san but her dad how came straightforward to me. I was so surprised. According to him, Jook-san left her mobile home so he took an expressway to bring it for her. I thanked him for his coming despite his busyness of going to Ratchaburi this afternoon. Jook-san came by bus after a while.

Grand Palace was the highlight I had kept until today. On the walls of Wat Phra Kaew were filled with painting following the story of Rama Kien, which came from Ramayana of India. Jook-san tried to explain showing each painting, but it was hard to understand at once for me. The title of the king 'Rama' comes from Rama Kien and every Thai people learn this classic in high school. The famous Emerald Buddha placed at the top of high alter with gilded decorations was the best part of Wat Phra Kaew. It's totally different from simple Japanese Temple. I think the both have their own characteristic to appreciate. It was so hot that we spent lazily three hours to look around the large palace.

We took a bus No. 25 to Siam and had a small lunch. Siam is a modern city for teenagers. According to Jook-san, nowadays most shops are air-conditioned and price is much higher than when she was a university student.

We took a Skytrain to Chatuchak Market (again) to buy souvenirs to my relatives and co-workers. I bought chopsticks with cases, sticks of incense and their holders (I thought they were pen cases). Jook-san bought neckties for my co-workers. We were satisfied with our shopping. When I was excited at pirated plastic figures of Dragon Ball characters, Jook-san had me stand up. As National Anthem was played at 18:00, every shopkeepers and visitors stood there.

We took a bus No. 529. During going back to Khao San Street, it began raining. We got wet, so we waited at a Seven Eleven of Banglamphu. It was the first time to be caught in a rain. After it stopped raining, we had a pizza at a restaurant crowded with Western backpackers. It was the first time for her to see the night scene of Khao San Street. She was very afraid not to make their parents worried. She took a bus No. 33 bound for Nontaburi at a bus stop on Phra Athit Street. Thank you Jook-san, see you tomorrow!

10 Sep 2007 (Mon)

I took a bus No. 3 to Chatuchak. It was the first time to face the notorious air pollution of Bangkok. My eyes began irritated so I had to cover my face using a towel. I think it was not because of traffic jam but rather because of cheap diesel oil. I remembered Wika-san said since the surge of oil price, everything has become expensive. I do hope Bangkok will have a dozen subways and become energy efficient city. I changed to the subway to Lat Phrao. The subway of Bangkok was very comfortable and clean. It was built by help of Japanese financial and technical cooperation.

After I put my backpack in Jook-san's car, we went to Siam (again). In front of the station was Siam Paragon, the new landmark of Siam. We had a dim sum breakfast at a nearby restaurant. Shrimps and pork were very juicy. I liked them.

We went to Chulalongkorn University Bookstore. Chulalongkorn University is the most prestigious university in Thailand and Chulalongkorn is the name of King Rama the V. She is a graduate of the university. There were so many kinds of academic books written in English. Students have to study in English, because many books are not translated in Thai. I was very excited to see English books. In Japan, owing to the greatest effort of predecessors, we can get most information in Japanese. The big Japanese market also supported their activity. However, it's a great pity that a lot of capable foreigners who want to work in Japan cannot find an opportunity because of the language barrier. In this information society, a lot of information is rapidly consumed faster than the speed of translation. I think Japan must create an international society open to these people. English will become a more important tool to communicate and acquire information.

We visited her junior high and high school, both of which were affiliated to Chulalongkorn University. It was significant for me to trace her related place, her history. I didn't know how she used to be then, but I felt the place had kept her memories and shared them with me.

We went to Chulalongkorn University located at the next block. In Thailand, university students have their uniform. I think it's good because they can concentrate on studying. We visited Faculty of Electrical Engineering, where she had been studied. We went to Chulalongkorn University Canteen near Samyan to have a lunch. The steak was cheap but not so good. According to her, they used to offer Thai dishes and they were far better.

Last thing we did was strolling modern departments in Siam: MBK, Siam Discovery Centre, Siam Center, and Central World Plaza. We had iced chocolate with cream at the plaza to heal our tired legs.

We came back to Lat Phrao by subway and Jook-san drove me to a restaurant nearby her house. The window opener of the front side seat and air conditioner was broken, so I sat on the rear seat. At the restaurant, I met her dad, mon, and her brother, Ping-san! We had a very enjoyable dinner. I thought Jook-san takes after her mom as well as her dad. Her mom would like her to teach in English, while her dad would like her to gain a PhD. She is expected by her parents so much. Ping-san is a flight attendant and he'd just come back from South Korea.

Finally we arrived at her home. I was really surprised at very big house withfive cars, a few servants. They bought a lot of Thai fruits for me. I enjoyed one by one. One of the happiest events there was that her grandma welcomed me so much. She was 80 years old, but she prepared what to speak to me and tried to speak in English. I shook hands with her so many times. I was so happy surrounded by Jook-san's family. Especially I will never forget the warmth of her grandma!

I wanted to stay there longer but it was time to go to the airport. After saying good bye to Ping-san, Jook-san, her dad, mom, Ang-san, and I departed to the airport. It was a pouring rain. Looking back this trip, I wasn't caught in the rain through the tour except once despite the rainy season of Thailand. Her mom talked about how much she's been worried about Jook-san especially when Jook-san was away studying abroad. Jook-san so is loved and protected so much by parents. At Suvarnabhumi Airport, I met Kong-san. Thank you for coming and seeing me off. He passed me his gifts for my co-workers. I said thank you so much and good bye to everyone.

I bought some sweets as a souvenir to my co-worker at a duty free shop to spend my all remaining bahts (500 bahts). At the security check, the staff told me to throw away my toothpaste. (Is it liquid?) I should prepare the small one for travelling next time.

Postface

Before the trip, I didn't know how many friends I could see and how many days. After all, I was with some of them almost all the time except the two-day Kanchanaburi Tour. Even the tour was well arranged by Kong-san. I can say this tour was filled with the memory of the days with them. I would like to say thank you to every friend I met there: P'Lek-san, P'Oak-san, P'Au-san, Jib-san, Kong-san, Det-san, Wika-san, Rat-san, Pat-san, Jook-san, and her family members.

It was the first time to go abroad and see local friends. I found it totally different from traveling alone or with Japanese friends. The itinerary may look not so crammed, but I really had a lot of experience not only what I wrote here. What we talked, enjoyed, felt face to face in the local place --- all moments are my treasures.

My interest in Thailand is becoming more and more greater. While I was writing this, I searched a lot of materials about Mahayana, Thai Prefectures, Thai fish and reptile, and so on and on... I would like to continue my study of Thailand. My primary impression is Thailand is largely influenced by India while Vietnam is by China. India would be my future destination.

Thank you Jib-san for booking the hotel for the first three days, welcoming me at the airport, showing your local community, having a day off on Monday, going to Pattaya for two consecutive days... and so many! Without you, I wouldn't have been interested in Thailand that much. I thank you very much.

Thank you Kong-san for getting a day off on Tuesday, arranging the Kanchanaburi tour, booking a hotel, accommodating me, the T-shirt, the knee trousers, sending me off, and everything! I like your explanation based on your wide knowledge of culture and history of Thailand and Okinawa. You are more than perfect. Now you are elevated to my best friend! Could you be?

Thank you, Wika-san and P'au-san for accompanying me on Friday, and taking me to temples and Chinatown. You really made my Friday enjoyable one.

Thank you, Jook-san for everything. Personally, it was significant to visit your related places, trace your history. I was very happy to be with you for five days. Please say hello to your dad, mom, brother and sister, grandma, and Ang-san.

In fact, whenever I was with them, they paid every meal and transportation fee for me. I was very surprised at their hospitality, far more than my expectation. The main reason I wrote this log in English is to say thank you to each of them, not only for my memory.

Khob khun krub!

17 September, 2007